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Hair Color Formulas - Difficult to Achieve Hair Colors Made Easy


Not all hair colors are created equal. In fact, some client requests are just flat out scary to perform sometimes. Hair color is like math, it may not make sense at first, but once you figure out the formula, the answer is right there in front of you. Below you'll find some tricky hair color requests, decoded, so you know just what to do next time.

1. Those Stubborn Reds

Achieving a rich, multi-dimensional red is no small order. Goldwell has long been known amongst professional colorists for offering some of the truest and longest lasting red tones. Below you'll find an amazing color formula that will result in a fiery, rich, multi-dimensional red hair color.

Base: Goldwell Topchic 7K 40mls + 40mls 10-volume peroxide

Formula A (for vibrancy): Topchic 7OR 10 mls + 8GG 10mls + 7KG 10mls + 30mls 20-volume peroxide

Formula B (for depth): Topchic 7KG 10mls + 8GG 10mls + 7KR + 30mls 20-volume peroxide

Formula C (highlights): Topchic 8KG 10mls + 9G 10mls + 20mls 40-volume peroxide

2. Going from Blonde to Brunette

When your uber-blonde client comes in and asks to be taken down to a brunette, most of us are going to panic a little. Have no fear! This fabulous formula will result in a rich, deep brunette with beautiful red undertones. You'll achieve just the right amount of depth, and the color won't look too inky or dark. Working with multiple tones when toning down your blonde clients will ease them into the transition, and they won't feel like their hair is all one dark color.

Formula 1 (Base): Rich Warm Brunette

30mls Tophic® 6NN + 20mls 6GB + 1ml 8kg + equal parts 10-volume developer

Formula 2: Golden Blonde

15mls Tophic® 8G + 5mls 9G + 2mls GG mix + equal parts 10-volume peroxide

Formula 3: Coppered Chocolate Brunette

20mls Tophic® 7KB + 5mls 7 G + 3mls 8kg + 2mls GG mix + equal parts 10-volume peroxide

Formula 4: Warm Brown

10mls Tophic® 7nn + 10mls 7G + 5mls 7B + 2mls 8kg + equal parts 10-volume peroxide

Formula 5: (Toner)

10mls Colorance® 8G + 5mls 8k + 3mls 7g + 2mls GG mix + 40mls Colorance® developer

3. Going Platinum

Going platinum with your client can also be a scary prospect at first. You'll be battling warmth, all while trying to maintain the integrity of your clients hair. Getting maximum lift out of the hair and using the right toner is key. Below you'll find an awesome formula that includes a toner that really works.

Formula 1 (Lightener): TIGI copyright©olour True light + TIGI copyright©olour activator 8.5vol/2.55%.

Formula 2 (Lily White Beige): 58g TIGI copyright©olour gloss 0/02 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 8.5vol/2.55%

Formula 3 (Buff Suede): 30g TIGI copyright©olour gloss 0/02 + 7g TIGI copyright©olour creative 7/23 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 8.5vol/2.55%

4. That Elusive J-Lo 'Bronde'

Requests for 'Bronde' hair color are popping up more and more. Not quite blonde and not quite brown is what some would describe this color made famous by ladies like Jennifer Lopez and Jessica Alba. As beautiful as this color is, it can also be surprisingly tricky to achieve at times. You need to find that balance of just enough warm and cool tones without going to warm or ashy. Below is a great formula to get you started with this hot trend.

Natural Level: 6 light brown

Existing Level: New growth with existing medium-light to extra light blonde highlights

Target Result: A seamless blend between the hues, achieved by adding lowlights, highlights and mid-banding with luminescent soft rose tones.

  • Formula A (Base Adjust): Matrix SoColor 8AV + 20 volume SoLite Cream Developer
  • Formula B (Highlight Retouch): Matrix V-Light De-dusted Lightener + 20-volume SoLite Cream Developer
  • Formula C: Matrix Color Sync 9G + 8RB + Color Sync Activator
  • Formula D (Lowlights): Matrix Color Sync 7WN + Color Sync Activator
  • Formula E (Glaze): Matrix Color Sync SPN + SPV + Color Sync Activator

10 Steps to Perfect Hair Color

Red Hair Color Formulas

Spring Hair Color Formulas

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